This is a pandoras box of opinions but there is zero argument, a faster frame rate will produce sharper frames when "motion" is introduced, like a walk through gimbal.Īlso if its really cheap lens you can actual add some sharpening in post in Premier and (probaby i dont know for sure) Final Cut. A lot of people are going to tell you to shoot at 24fps at 1/50th of a second for a "true film look". The 5D Mark III does not offer clean HDMI out, however, we do have a new EOS Webcam Utility Beta Software that may allow you to stream via USB. If you are using a 24-50mm+ lens you will need to manually focus every single take precisely there is much less room for error as longer focal lengths on Full Frame cameras have very narrow depth of fields.Īnother tip is to shoot at a faster frame rate. Just focus 6-8 feet in front of the camera or at 2/3rds the depth of the room if its a larger space and everything should be well within acceptable range. In fact I hate shooting anything narrower than 5.6 becuase sensor dust is impossible to see in the field and is minimized when shooting wider apertures. I have shot with a 14mm and 17mm at f4 with perfectly acceptable results. Magic Lantern was originally written for the Canon EOS 5D Mark II by Trammell Hudson in 2009 after he reverse engineered its firmware. The wider the lens the deeper (more area) depth of field you will have.
Any ideas on how to get around this? Easiest solution obviously is to just use an EF-M lens, but those things are expensive and not nearly as fun.You didn't mention wha lens you were using. Both images came out roughly the same, but they are displayed differently on the cameras screen. Still hot with news on the Canon 5D Mark III being able to shoot continuous raw video footage with Magic Lantern, comparison videos are starting to hit the net. The one on the left is with auto ISO and the one on the right is manual ISO. The image below shows what I'm talking about. I've got a family member with a Nikon D3300 and it has zero issues with the display using these same lenses. It's been super annoying, especially when trying to take panoramas or anything else that requires consistent brightness between shots. What shows on the screen looks more like 100-200, but the actual picture taken looks fine. Neither the original GH5 or the GH5 II can output RAW over HDMI. Say I take an indoor photo with ISO manually set to 800. If I use anything other than auto ISO, the image displayed on the screen of the camera is way darker than the actual photo taken.
There has just been one little quirk that has gotten in the way of some of my shots though. It has been a while now since the team at Magic Lantern unlocked the ability to shoot RAW video on the new Canon 5D Mark III and several other bodies.
Their latest creation - called Dual ISO - dramatically increases the dynamic range of the 5D Mark III and EOS 7D by four stops, bringing the total dynamic range to 14EV. I've had it fitted with two vintage Nikon manual prime lenses for about a year now and it's been a really fun setup. The folks at Magic Lantern are no stranger to adding new features to Canon DSLRs, courtesy of their EOS Camera Tool software.
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